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Surface treatment o...
 
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Surface treatment of hinges

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Honza
Posts: 10
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(@honza)
DINGO Aviator
Joined: 1 year ago

Robert Hughes (UK):

The Dingo is mostly built from 6061 aluminium alloy, which has very good corrosion resistance. Some important parts, however, are made from 2024 which is a lot stronger but less resistant to corrosion. Those parts have to be painted. I wasn't looking forward to doing this, because in the (distant) past I never had much success in painting aluminium. The old paint never seemed to stick very well. I need not have worried, because with modern etch primers it's much easier. The paint itself contains an acid which microscopically etches the surface, so the paint gets a very good grip on it. It also comes in an aerosol so you can get a smooth finish. You still have to degrease thoroughly and it helps to key the surface with a Scotchbrite pad. I don't have a spray booth or extraction facilities, so I improvised with a ladder and a length of dowel outside... The parts in the pictures are the only bits needing painting for the elevator. I masked over the bearing for the pin (connecting the elevator to the fin) so I didn't get spray paint in it. The paint dries quickly, but I'm going to leave it to harden well tomorrow and start assembling the elevator on Thursday.

 s
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chillidesign
Posts: 2
(@chillidesign)
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Joined: 1 year ago

Hello, can you share information about which type of spray have you used? 👍

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Posts: 4
 RobH
(@robh)
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Joined: 1 year ago

I used an aerosol primer called ProXL Spectro Prime, which is available in a selection of colours.  It's a self-etch primer which seems to stick well to the aluminium as long as it's thoroughly degreased first.  I over-coated it with ProXL Matt Lacquer, which is scratch, UV & petrol resistant, also in an aerosol.  I used 3 coats of each, only allowing about five minutes between each coat.  They are both 1K paints, so something like acetone would strip them both off.  I tried various solvents, looking for something that would clean up the mastic used in the Dingo kit but not attack the paint, and the best thing I found was Primus "Power Fuel".  It's like a highly refined petrol/gasoline for use in camping cookers.  The paint stands up to it ok, as long as you don't rub too hard or leave it on too long...

I did consider 2K paints, which should give a harder finish and stand up better to solvents, but they have some disadvantages.  They're 2-component paints where a hardener is mixed with a base.  They are available in aerosols, but once activated they have to be used up in a fairly short timescale.  Also I believe some of the ingredients are more toxic than in 1K paints, and I don't have proper spray facilities.

I'd suggest doing some tests with what is available in your area, and satisfy yourself that the products & process are satisfactory for what you want

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